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By Luke Baumgarten. T he information was disseminated on a need-to-know basis.

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The exact location will be e-mailed to you at 9 am tomorrow morning. The destination was a spot along the newly paved Fish Lake Trail.

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The message detailed several logistical hurdles. They want change. They want hole-in-the-wall deli counters selling nothing but artisanal meats. They want food carts selling escargots in paper cups.

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People have gotten really comfortable talking about how great a place Spokane will be in spokane years. A little more than six weeks later, flanked by the century-old warehouses and barbed-wire-topped fences of Pacific Avenue in club Spokane, valets hustled finely dressed men and women out of their Audis and Escalades into an unmarked building whose walls were painted stark white, save for the large flat-screen TVs recessed into them. It was roughly 6 sex on a Sunday and still light, but the street had taken on the gauzy yellow incandescence of an early spring evening.

Guests were greeted with elegant flutes of Cristal and left to mingle. As more people showed up, the anteroom filled shoulder-to-shoulder. Meanwhile, behind a white partition and past two mammoth tables with place settings for 30 each, Jeremy Hansen and a team of about a dozen worked feverishly to prepare the first course in what, when all was said and done, would be a marathon course tour de food. The 11th course consisted of chocolate-braised Berkshire belly, fleur de sel and sauce Champoux.

The evening lasted well into the early morning — nearly eight hours in all. Subtler and perhaps more numerous, though, are the suppers. South Perry's Southern-style eatery Casper Fry reopens after a yearlong hiatus with a new chef, menu.

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Make your Mother's Day brunch reservations now; plus other food updates. Both are admirers of the offerings of area farmers. They source their events the way they source their restaurants, as locally as possible. For that price, diners got handmade buns, locally grown beef and a fresh, light arugula salad. It was fun to mix and match chocolate caviar, sauce Champoux and a cube made of bacon powder in Course 11, but the clear centerpiece of the plate was an exquisitely braised pork belly.

Creeping closer, up stairs sandwiched between an elevated patio and a meandering waterfall, hints emerged that this was the place. A handful of people stood out on the deck mingling. Some seemed to know each other quite well. At the casino, Hegsted oversees food operations that feed close to 36, people a month. Here he was cooking for Wandering Table, then, is an opportunity to refine his technique, get back in touch with all aspects of food preparation and play with some of his stranger ideas.

Of course, this play is a work of art.

For Jana Tritto and the other diners, it was a little like seeing U2 play a small Dublin pub with a capacity of Hegsted acted as a server for many of the courses and when people asked, he gave thoughts on preparation and technique. He mentioned that the parmesan soup was actually made with a parmesan stock.

Diners were incredulous, wanting to know how such a thing was possible. They talked over each other. One particularly cheeky, inventive course played on baked beans, adding smoked-salmon bacon, charred onion and copious pine nuts that, when cooked, took on the texture of al dente navy beans.

Pop-up restaurants and clandestine dinner clubs are about to change the way the inland northwest thinks about food.

Between courses, the talk meandered, touching on serious and absurd things. Topics included theater arts, computer programming, equine end-of-life issues, Turduckens, the Counting Crows, the difference between hydronics and hydrology, strange baby shower games, food phobias and the steady progress of photovoltaics. Just before the dessert courses began, Hegsted walked out with chocolate truffles skewered on flimsy reed-like sticks stuck into a bed of grass. It looked like a Dr. Seuss dreamscape. He set it in the middle of the table and walked away, leaving it to sit for three courses.

By the end, a unique kind of community had sprung up here in less than three hours.

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People who in the normal course of things might not have much reason to talk, when put at close quarters and supplied with thoughtful food and eclectic company, opened up to one another. As the final dessert course was served, the table offered Hegsted, his brother Ryan Stoy and their crew a round of applause. T he excitement for these events is palpable among foodies. Hegsted has held a total of three events to date, as has Blaine. Every one has sold out, either by taking the maximum of reservations or just by selling all the food they brought with them.

With no lack of enthusiasm or ideas from any of the chefs and no shortage of support from the community, the biggest problem for these events is the law.

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Hegsted is banking that a loophole surrounding private events will get him around the permitting process. Blaine tried that loophole himself. He tried taking donations. And in order to get a TFE, you need to be tied to an existing event. Like Bloomsday.

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Something the Health District recognizes. Carte Blanche. There are established food permits for brick-and-mortar restaurants, food trucks and one-time events. This is true of all establishments on this list.

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They tell you if that works for them. You make changes to your plan until it meets their standards. Other start-up costs — construction, non-food permits, equipment — run in the hundreds of thousands.

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Their menus must be approved by the Health District, and if they change, must be reapproved. Caterers must operate in conjunction with a qualifying event or in conjunction with a contractual agreement to supply a given of meals to a specific entity. Legally Gray:Supper Clubs Any food service open to the public — even if the food is free or you accept donations — needs a permit.

A supper club-type event could work if you have a catering and get some benevolent contractor to create the event for you. Also see Pop Ups. Legal:Food Trucks Food trucks like Tacos Tumbras, El Sol de Mexico, the guy who sells the German sausages sex the courthouse need to exist in a certified vehicle, which can cost tens of thousands of dollars. This is a spokane low-cost solution if you want to be out and club every day, slinging the same kind of food.

It would be a nightmare tracking down hundreds of guys with grills and tents. Hansen says because of the complexity of his menu, the process is grueling. Neither Blaine, Hegsted nor Hansen begrudge inspectors due diligence in matters of food safety. Blaine wants to add a moral imperative component to the way we think about our food regulations. Councilman Snyder says the city has no control over the Health District and thus all direct action needs to be taken through them.

In towns like Seattle, where the Office of Economic Growth put its stamp of approval on street vendors of all sorts — not just food places — as economic incubators, that supper helped spur regulatory bodies and neighborhood councils to take a look at where such things might fit.

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When they change something, we can look at changing it, too. To secure your spot, leave the following: your nameyour cell phone and your e-mail address. This information will guarantee you an entrance password and updates on the secret location. Thank you very much, have a fantastic time. When Amy Nathan moved back to Spokane from Miami, she set out with her friend Teri Dykeman to craft experiences unlike anything you could find around here. They landed on the idea of clandestine supper clubs after seeing them operate in places like Miami, Chicago, New York, L. Daniel Gonzalez — a year-old who spent the last eight years in Seattle, first in culinary school and then at a variety of restaurants including Restaurant Zoe, Le Pichet and Lark — has ed up for the launch party and the first two events.

Gonzalez, 26, displays some of the same intensity as Hansen, Hegsted and Blaine: a man with a taste for revolution.

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Here are your le: Pop-Up, popupspokane. A new pop-up dinner series combines creative food with the power of pop culture. Precinct-by-precinct breakdown of last night's vote on Measure 1. Stella's Cafe is taking over the Eyvind kitchen; plus recent openings and reopenings.

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A historic Coeur d'Alene farmstead offers specialty pumpkins, pie-making classes and a farm experience for visitors. Newly opened in Hayden, Belle's Brunch House serves classic brunch fare all day long. There's an increasing of breweries around the region operating at a small scale.

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The new chef at North Hill on Garland talks goals, her love of Vietnamese pho and influential local chefs. Submit an Event. Browse all Film Times. Luke Baumgarten is commentary contributor and former culture editor of the Inlander.